« White Chocolate Cheesecake with Raspberries | Home | White Pass and Yukon Railroad »

Barging through Burgundy

by Arie Boris, CruiseGourmet.com Editor-in-Chief

There is a mystique surrounding the idea of canal barging. I have heard many descriptions from floating B&B to houseboat with frills. Having never experienced it, I was filled with anticipation at the prospect of hosting a “gastronomic” cruise through the French countryside.

After a three hour drive from Paris with twelve fun-loving CruiseGourmet.com readers, we embarked on La Luciole for a passage through time on the western waterways of Burgundy. The winding, ever varying Nivernais route embraces both the River Yonne and centuries old canals that preserve the regions character of 150 years ago.

I had to consult my thesaurus for this story to find several variations for the word “charming.” Our introduction to La Luciole was in the delightful village of Chevroches where we were greeted with mouth-watering canapés and Crement de Bourgogne or Cassis Kir Royale. After all, this was a “Gastronomic” cruise and true to form we ate and drank well from the moment we boarded.

The crew, along with the owner of the barge, Penny Lily, welcomed us onboard. A delightful young English mother of two from outside Manchester, Penny agreed to accompany us to conduct several “cookery” demonstrations during the week. She spent many summers as chef onboard canal barges in France, meeting her husband onboard one. Together they oversee the operation of the Luciole.

Unlike a traditional cruise, the crew brought to the experience a true sense of their individual personalities and made us all feel a part of their family. Dashing Captain Nigel’s lovely wife Deborah, along with Donna, who actually grew up as a milk maid in Wales, saw to our every need. Our intrepid guide and consummate tour bus driver, Michael knew Burgundy intimately. His complete knowledge of the area coupled with his impish sense of humor added to our enjoyment. Then there was Carly, the Chef, a vivacious New Zealander, whose passion for cooking enthralled us with every meal.

The Luciole, herself was more spacious than I imagined and enchanting. I felt as though I had entered a cozy French cottage home inhabited by friendly Brits! The main saloon had comfy couches, tables and ample seating; all rearranged by the crew for family style meals. Large picture windows with colorful home made curtains allowed for a wonderful view. This area extended to a large outdoor deck surrounded by overflowing flower boxes. Along with beautiful blooms, there were several fresh herbs well maintained for use by the chef. Most of our days, when not touring, were spent lounging on the deck’s patio furniture enjoying the changing countryside in the shade of the umbrellas or working on a French summer tan.

The cabins, at the bottom of a narrow carpeted stairway, were a pleasant surprise. Larger than anticipated, they were brightly colored. Each had a small window and air-conditioner, which is not generally the rule on most canal barges. The mattresses, pillows and down comforters were truly indulgent and made up for the relatively close quarters. I had the best nights sleep during my week onboard! Each cabin has a small private bathroom with shower and the crew kept our accommodations spotless. There were two large drawers under the bed and a small rack for hangers…keep in mind life on a canal barge is strictly beach house informal and a large wardrobe is absolutely not necessary.

Dinner our first evening started with a warm goat cheese salad with red pepper syrup followed by lemon, fresh thyme and almond chicken breast with saffron infused risotto. One of the staff and the chef give a brief presentation before each meal. They proudly explained the menus, the various local wines to be served and the always present selection of incredible French cheeses. France does not require cheese to be pasteurized; therefore the selection included many varieties not available in the USA. To give you an idea, along with Camembert or Roquefort, we enjoyed Brillat-Savarin, Fourme d’ Ambert, Tomme de Savoie and Rouy. Each was better than the last.

The first full day we cruised the canals and traversed several hand-operated locks. Each lock is operated by a “lock keeper,” who actually maintains the lock and lives alongside in a 19th century cottage. Many have lovely gardens and some, decorated with pure “kitsch,” are over the top. Several of us walked or rode bicycles on the path alongside the canal. We would meet up with the barge at the next lock. Some preferred cruising through the French countryside, enjoying the rural scene from the open deck.

After a delicious buffet lunch consisting of Pate en Croute with a Tomato, Mascapone and Basil tart accompanied by Petit Chablis Dom Du Chardonnay-2002, we visited a fois gras farm. In the late afternoon, Penny organized an olive oil tasting up on deck. We dipped bits of French bread into Extra Virgin along with olive oil infused with hazelnut, walnut, Basel and black truffles. Then cocktails as the sun set over the Yonne followed by another spectacular gastronomic event; Roquefort Soufflés with Sweet Chili sauce followed by Duck Breast in a Cep sauce accompanied by a Pouilly Fuisse-Yves Chaley 2000 and a Chateauneuf Du Pape-Dom Des Tois Plantiers 2002. Dessert was Champagne Sorbet with mixed berries. After, dinner drinks on deck capped a very full day on the Nivernais Canals.

This was the routine as we slowly sailed north to Auxerre over the next several days. We visited the mediaeval open air market at Avallon, where I bought some fresh mushrooms for the chef. We enjoyed a wine tasting in Chablis in the cellars of Domaine Pinson. Our host was the descendant of the vintner who supplied wines to the court of King Louis 16th and Marie Antoinette. Driving through the famed vineyards of the Cote d’Or region of Burgundy we spent the day in the mediaeval town of Beaune. We had a hearty farmer’s lunch at The Bistro Bourguignon where we embraced the “Cuisine de La France Profonde” (i.e., food from the heart of France). The eminent Hospice de Beaune built in 1443 gave us a sobering look at the primitive medical practices of the times.

Meals on the Luciole combined contemporary innovation with traditional French cooking. One evening we enjoyed Baby Red Snapper with Mango Salsa and at one lunch an exquisite Quiche Lorraine. It was magnificent and not just because we were eating it in France!

Barging through Burgundy on the Luciole surpassed all expectations. We visited so many fascinating places and even with all the activity, the overall experience was incredibly relaxing. We drank wonderful local wines and the dining was beyond comparison. The consensus of the group, all veteran cruisers, was this cruise vacation was they best they had ever taken.

For more information about the Luciole and canal barging in France, visit www.francecruises.com.