The Cote d’Azur, the French Riviera – call it what you will – this is the world’s dream spot. Celebrated in novels, memoirs, paintings, and film, this long strip of coast between Cassis and Menton probably has more charisma and more prestige that any other. It’s unofficial capital: Nice.
The Côte d’Azur still evokes images of idle millionaires, pink palaces and long limousines of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s era. And from the professional gamblers in Monte Carlo’s casino to the yachting fraternity of St. Tropez and the starlets posing on Cannes’ beach, the legends are still very real. But there is more to the Côte d’Azur than glamour and money!
Beyond the ribbons of golden sand skirting the deep blue sea and the spectacular scenery of the Corniche roads, less widely acclaimed sights wait to be discovered. There is the fragrant back country, heady with the scent of mimosa, lavender and thyme; medieval hill towns, many now deserted, others brought back to life by resident artists and artisans; and the wild and dramatic valley of the Loup River. To really savor life here try sitting in a village square. Listen to the gurgling fountain as you sip a pastis and watch the men playing pétanque under the shade of outsize plane trees.
It’s twice as sunny here as in Paris, though the climate is not quite perfect, as it is occasionally subject to roaring mistral wind. Given the bright colors and the special quality of the light, it’s not surprising that many famous artists have often gravitated south. Monet, Picasso, Matisse and Cocteau are just a few who created masterpieces here – and left their personal touches on some of the buildings.
The Côte d’Azur is not the place to find deserted beaches. The coastal strip is thickly populated and in the summer the number of people almost doubles. In the towns, the traffic can be horrendous. So just count the many blessings – good food and wine, charming towns, outgoing people, beautiful scenery, sparkling sea and sunny skies. For nowhere else will you find the marvelous blend that makes this one of the world’s most appealing resort areas.
The big port city of Toulon provides an excellent center for excursions, to the beaches of the Côte d’Azur, the cliffs and inlets of the Calanques, the fragrant hills of Provence and the Îles d’Hyères offshore.
Of course, if you are a shopper, you will find the best of everything French – jewelry, couturier clothing, silver, crystal and porcelain. There is a wealth of attractive pottery here, from ashtrays to dinner sets – plain, flowery, abstract, even some original Picasso designs. Shop windows are filled with semi-precious stones, often set in jewelry. In the little towns behind Cannes, you’ll see many articles made of olive wood. You can purchase the famous Provencal cotton in lengths or made into cushions, skirts, quilts or lavender bags. Most shops are open Tuesday to Saturday. In summer, the shops may close longer in the middle of the day and stay open later in the evening.
